5 Affordable Rolex Watches for New Collectors

Rolex is the most recognizable and most coveted watch brand in the world. Here are five popular Rolex watch models that are in stores now and that offer accessible prices for collectors of all ages.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Rolex calls it the quintessential Oyster, and the purest expression of the Oyster concept. It’s hard to argue with that, and this watch provides an excellent entry point into the world of Rolex.

The Oyster Perpetual offers its owner many of the advances Rolex is known for, including some the best technical developments. The 36 mm 904L stainless steel case is water resistant to 100 meters, or 330 feet. The center section of the case is milled from a solid block of steel. The crown uses the patented Twinlock system to keep the elements at bay, and the sapphire crystal is virtually scratchproof.

This model is powered by the Rolex manufacture self-winding caliber 3130. This movement bears the official Swiss chronometer certification, and, like all Rolex movements, it is known for both precision and reliability. The precision is made possible by a free-sprung balance, prized by collectors and found in the finest movements. The patented blue Parachrom hairspring offers excellent protection against shocks, magnetic fields and temperature variations.

The 36-mm Oyster Perpetual is priced at $5,400.

Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer is a true icon, not only for Rolex, but within the larger world of rugged, precision-made timepieces. It famously accompanied Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay when they became the first to reach the summit of Mt. Everest in May, 1953. That achievement is one of many, but it is emblematic of the adventurous spirit that guides both Rolex in its quest for perfection, and those who consider their Explorer an essential part of their success.

Launched in 2010, the newest Explorer remains faithful to the heritage that extends back to 1953. Blue Chromalight hour markers and hands assure excellent visibility in all conditions. The 39-mm Oyster case, the Twinlock crown, and the sapphire crystal secure the movement against harm.

Inside, the Caliber 3132 self-winding movement is as robust as it is precise. Of course it is an officially certified chronometer. The free-sprung balance is precision-fitted between two Paraflex shock absorbers, developed and patented by Rolex. The blue Parachrom hairspring assures high-precision timekeeping.

The bracelet is fitted with the patented Oysterlock clasp, and with the Easylink comfort system, which allows the user to extend the bracelet by 5 mm.

The Rolex Explorer is priced at $6,550.

Rolex Datejust II
The Rolex Datejust is the quintessential “goes everywhere, does everything” timepiece. When men say they want a watch they can wear with jeans as well as a suit, this is the go-to recommendation. The Datejust defines versatility.

The Datejust also represents another time-honored and timeless Rolex design. Though it has been updated since its creation in 1945, it remains an instantly recognizable talisman of taste and refinement. In 2009, Rolex launched the current model, the Datejust II. With its 41 mm diameter, this latest incarnation satisfies the desire for a timepiece that makes a bold statement on the wrist.

The Datejust II is the only watch among our selections to offer one of Rolex’s most widely-recognizable technical enhancements: the Cyclops lens above the date. Invented by Rolex in 1953, the lens magnifies the date 2.5 times, making it much easier to read. The date display itself offers both quick correction via the crown, and instantaneous changing.

The 904L stainless steel Oyster case is available with another instantly identifiable Rolex hallmark: the fluted bezel. When the Oyster debuted in 1926, the fluting was functional – it allowed the crown to be gripped so it could be screwed down onto the case to guarantee a watertight seal.

The self-winding Caliber 3136 movement bears the “Chronometer” designation, awarded by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It features the Microstella variable-inertia balance, Paraflex shock absorbers, and Parachrom balance spring with Breguet overcoil for improved timekeeping precision.

The Rolex Datejust II is priced from $7,150.

Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner is instantly recognized anywhere on the planet. It exemplifies precision under pressure, and it exudes a sense of adventure. Created in 1953, it was the first watch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters, or 330 feet.

We have selected the so-called non-date model for our survey, reference 114060, as it represents the entry point into Submariner world. Many think it also represents the Submariner in its purest form. The original models did not feature a date, and this timepiece is, after all, a tool for divers, who rarely need to know the date when under the sea. With no date, the watch offers an uninterrupted time display – a requirement for adventurers of all types. Rolex calls it the dive watch archetype. That pretty much sums it up.

Today, the 904L stainless steel Oyster case offers water resistance to 300 meters, or 1,000 feet. The blue Chromalight display, protected by a sapphire crystal, assures excellent visibility. The patented Triplock crown is reserved for Rolex timepieces built to visit great depths. The rotatable 60-minute bezel with scratchproof Cerachrom ceramic insert allows divers to time their dives. The bezel’s triangular zero marker glows Chromalight blue. Divers also appreciate the Oyster bracelet fitted with the Glidelock system for fine adjustment of the bracelet length.

Precision timekeeping is especially important under water, and the Submariner’s self-winding Caliber 3130 movement inspires confidence with its COSC-certified chronometer rating. The heart of the movement is the adjustable-inertia balance wheel with gold Microstella weights with a blue Parachrom hairspring that offers excellent stability when exposed to shocks, vibrations, magnetic fields, and temperature changes. The height-adjustable traversing balance bridge allows very stable positioning to increase shock resistance.

The Rolex Submariner reference 114060 is priced at $7,500.

Rolex Milgauss

The Rolex Milgauss was created in 1956 for engineers and technicians who are exposed to strong magnetic fields in their work. These fields can affect the performance in mechanical watches. Rolex solved the problem by developing and patenting a magnetic shield for the movement that allowed the watch to withstand fields up to 1,000 ( “mille” in French) gauss – the unit of measure for field strength. The Milgauss became popular among scientists working at the European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN) in Geneva.

In 2007, Rolex launched a new generation Milgauss that incorporates all of Rolex’s technological expertise. The new model’s orange seconds hand shaped like a lightning bolt is inspired by the original.

Today we encounter powerful magnets every day, from refrigerator doors and tablet computer cases to and handbag and briefcase clasps, we are surrounded by magnets. Magnetic fields are also present in a range of industries, including telecommunications, medical technology, aerospace and electrotechnical.

Rolex uses several innovations to keep these fields at bay. The first line of defense is the magnetic shield inside the case. Made of ferromagnetic alloys, it surrounds and protects the movement. This invention was patented by Rolex in 1956 and has since been further improved.

The second line of defense involves some of the movement’s key components, made from innovative nonmagnetic materials. The escape wheel is fashioned from an antimagnetic nickel-phosphorous alloy using a complex process called UV-LiGA or ultra-violet lithography that Rolex has master in-house. The oscillator uses the patented blue Parachrom balance spring.

Of course the movement is protected from more than just magnetic fields. The 904L stainless steel Oyster case and the Twinlock crown seal out the elements, offering water resistance to 100 meters or 330 feet. The Rolex manufacture Caliber 3131 movement is a certified Swiss chronometer.

To assure that the Milgauss remains comfortable on the wrist, the Oyster bracelet is fitted with the patented Easylink system, which allows the owner to extend the bracelet by up to 5 mm.

The Rolex Milgauss is priced from $7,650.

Source: WatchTime blog (September 13, 2014)

Tudor Watches: Getting to Know the “Other” Rolex

With the return of Tudor watches to the United States after a long absence, American watch fans once again have the opportunity to purchase timepieces from Rolex’s lower priced “little brother” Tudor watch brand. Below, we take a look at some of the Tudor watches that U.S. watch collectors had been missing out on, along with some current Tudor watches — available in the States — that have been released at the Baselworld watch fairs in 2013 and 2014.

The Tudor Heritage Black Bay is inspired by a Tudor watch for divers that made its first appearance in 1954. The watch also pays homage to Tudor watches of the 1970s with its burgundy-colored, unidirectional bezel (and burgundy accent on the crown). The watch has a steel case with a diameter of 41 mm, water-resistant to 200 meters (660 feet). (To access our exclusive watch test of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay, click here.)

Tudor Heritage Black Bay

At Baselworld 2014, Tudor released a new version of the Heritage Black Bay (below) with a matte-black dial and blue bezel. To read more about it, click here.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay

As the official “Timing Partner” of Ducati, the Italian motorcycle manufacturer, Tudor created the Fastrider, a Tudor chronograph inspired by the world of motorcycle racing. The design of these sporty Tudor watches features several allusions to motorcycles, including the racing stripes on the dial and chronograph pushers that resemble engine pistons. The dial comes in three colors: black, white, or “silversun,” and the watch comes on a triple-link steel bracelet, leather strap, or black fabric strap.

Tudor Fastrider

For the Tudor brand’s big U.S. return, Tudor unveiled at Baselworld 2013 a special edition Tudor watch called the Tudor Fastrider Black Shield, a chronograph in a monobloc matte-black ceramic case with red accents. Click here for more on the Tudor Fastrider Black Shield, including a brand video.)

Tudor Fastrider Black Shield

Tudor’s other diving watch, the Pelagos, features a case made completely of titanium, water-resistant to a depth of up to 500 meters (1,640 feet). The Pelagos is available with a titanium bracelet equipped with a spring-loaded self-adjusting mechanism, developed and patented by Tudor, which automatically adjusts itself, contracting as a diver descends and his diving suit compresses, and expanding as he ascends.

Tudor Pelagos

Tudor also offers ladies’ watches, notably its Claire de Rose collection. One of the highlights of the Claire de Rose is the seconds hand, a cut-out of Tudor’s rose symbol. The rose is also found on the cabochon on top of the crown. The Clair de Rose collection also features mother-of-pearl dials.

Tudor Claire de Rose

The Tudor Heritage Advisor is a modern version of Tudor’s 1957 alarm watch, updated from from 34 mm to 42 mm, but still maintaining the mechanical alarm. Like the Tudor Black Bay watch, the Advisor is part of the Heritage line, which draws on past Tudor watches for inspiration.

Tudor Heritage Advisor

Reminiscent of Rolex’s Day-Date watches, Tudor’s Classic Date-Day features a date display at the 3 o’clock position and a day indicator at the 12 o’clock position. This automatic watch, powered by Tudor’s Caliber 2834, has a power reserve of 38 hours.

Tudor Classic Date-Day

At Baselworld 2014, two new Tudor watch collections were introduced: The Tudor Heritage Ranger, a rugged sports military-style sports watch with a brown leather “bund” strap, and the Tudor Style, the brand’s new “entry level” dress watch. Echoing the design of vintage watches of the 1950s, the Tudor Style watches are available in men’s and ladies’ versions, with prices starting at $2,000. (Click here for our Baselworld reporting on both the Ranger and Style collections.)

Tudor Heritage Ranger

Tudor Style

Source: Watch Time Blog (August 11, 2014)

Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060 “No Date” Watch Long-Term Review

After almost a year of wearing a Rolex Submariner 114060 watch, I've come to at least one conclusion - this is a darn tough timepiece to beat. To own a Rolex watch for many people is an aspiration. The power of the Swiss company is that it has created a demand for the name, in many ways, more so than the products they produce. People often come to me and say, "Ariel, I want a Rolex." I usually respond with, "OK, what Rolex do you want?" The answer is, "I don't know, that is why I need your help, I need you to help me choose one." The message there is that Rolex is a company whose image in many ways is louder than its products. But at aBlogtoWatch, product is everything.

The good news is that when it comes to product, Rolex watches rarely let you down. If anyone asks me why Rolex is such a successful brand I often point out that "their products are actually really good." Of course, Rolex doesn't make every type of watch you want and isn't the best at everything, but there is no denying that in addition to their enviable brand image, they made very good timepieces.

One of the ironies of Rolex is that the pieces most popular to watch lovers are not the pieces that Rolex sells the most of. Ask a "watch guy" what the best Rolex watch is and most of us will point to something in the "Oyster Professional" collection, such as a Submariner or GMT-Master (among others). Ask Rolex where most of their sales comes from, and they will tell you something completely different. From a business perspective, Rolex will share that Datejusts, especially women's models with diamonds,  are the most popular products in their collection.

So yes, watch lovers and "the general public" have different watch tastes. That is something I've known for a long time, and perhaps something that I will explore more in the future. Having said that, brands like Rolex, Omega, and TAG Heuer - that do not strictly survive on sales from watch lovers - nevertheless continue to offer a large assortment of watches that greatly appeal to us. And if there is one watch that I can think of that equally appeals to the watch lover and the general public, it is the famous Rolex Submariner.

Last year I wrote a review of the Rolex Submariner watch here. That review was actually for the Rolex Submariner ref. 114060 (the model in this article) as well as the ref. 116610. What is the difference between these two models? The date. The ref 116610 is technically known as the Submariner Date, but since it is the more popular of the two models, frequently it is just called the Submariner, while the ref. 114060 is referred to as the Submariner "No Date" (which, like I said, is not an official name).

Why does Rolex offer two versions? That is a good question, and it goes back to appealing to those who were fans of the original Rolex Submariner watches that began their life in the 1950s. The Submariner did not acquire a date window until later, and over history Rolex has produced models with both the date and without the date. The Submariner Date actually costs about $1,000 more, and what you get for that is a date complication and a magnifier lens as part of the sapphire crystal to help read the date better. Not everyone is a fan of the magnifier, and if you still want the date but dislike the magnifier a good choice for you might be the new Rolex Sea-Dweller 4000 watch.

While the Rolex Submariner Date 116610 is an iconic and classic design, I happen to like the elegance of the perfectly symmetrical and more simple dial of the Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060. You know what? I also like that I don't need to adjust the date. If the watch has been sitting for a while and isn't wound, I like that setting it is faster and more simple given that you just need to set the time (and not deal with AM/PM). I don't use the date on my watch all that much - even though I do appreciate the complication - and in this instance, I felt a degree of freedom to not have it in the Rolex Submariner.

Rolex watches are built with the precision of scientific instruments and they are among the few watches that you can inspect with a magnifying glass and still appreciate so many areas of perfection. Whether or not you are looking at the 18k white gold hands and hour markers (which are tarnish resistant), or the polishing on the steel case, Rolex does its best to imbue a product like this with a real sense of perfection.

At 40mm wide, The Rolex Submariner 114060 is among the smallest watches I wear. Having said that, it does wear large for its size, given the wide lugs. I would say that it wears much more like a 42mm wide watch. The on-wrist comfort is outstanding, but of course Rolex has had decades to perfect the design and the newest generation Submariner is at its best. The bracelet wraps nicely around your wrist, and best of all, the Glidelock system allows you to adjust the bracelet a few millimeters with ease. Wrists can expand naturally in different temperatures, etc... so being able to properly micro-adjust the watch at all times is a very welcome added feature.

In writing this review, I have realized that there are so many areas of detail I could be going into - especially for first time luxury watch buyers who aren't familiar with what a high-end watch offers over an inexpensive watch. At the same time, it is difficult to explain all the ways a Rolex watch is different than those produced by other companies. When it comes to metal, I don't think I've seen anything from another company that is as good as Rolex's work.

Most steel wrist watches use a form of stainless steel known as 316L. Rolex does not. Starting about 15 years ago, they began to use an alloy known at 904L steel. Rolex takes their metals very seriously, and I discuss more about that here, in discussing how Rolex has an in-house metallurgy department. 904L steel is more difficult to machine than 316L steel and, as far as I know, Rolex is the only company able to mass produce 904L parts. 904L steel polishes up a bit better, and has the look of white gold a little bit, given its finish, which is slightly whiter than most other steels. It is subtle, but for me the use of 904L steel combined with Rolex's meticulous finishing and polishing processes result in a case and bracelet unlike anything else available.

Given how well the Rolex Submariner goes with most any outfit it is sometimes easy to forget that it is a serious dive watch. Water resistant to 300 meters with a rotating diver's bezel, there is a reason why the Submariner is part of Rolex's "Oyster Professional" collection of watches. The dial is utterly classic (albeit a design which is ubiquitous, after having been copied for decades), and it is very legible. These newer Rolex watches make use of blue-colored, versus green luminant which is a nice touch that other brands have followed.

Around the dial is the rotating diver's bezel with Rolex's Cerachrom black ceramic bezel insert. The previous generation Rolex Submariner still used aluminum bezel inserts, and in comparison to the more modern ceramic ones, they are almost barbaric. Flat and easy to scratch aluminum bezel inserts should not be found in anything but inexpensive watches these days. Some people of course have a fondness for the older aluminum style bezel (or even some of the plastic ones, from a really long time ago). Those people are clearly turning a blind eye to the impressive design, precision cut markers, and scratch resistance properties of a ceramic bezel. Also, sorry folks, in 30 years the Cerachrom bezel isn't going to "patina." It will stay the same glossy black color it is when you buy it.

Inside the Rolex Submariner 114060 is the totally in-house made caliber 3130 automatic. It is an utterly well-made, no nonsense workhorse of the highest caliber (no pun intended) that just tells the time. Rolex COSC Chronometer certifies each of these watches (as they do with most of their watches) and it has proven to be highly accurate and reliable (for a mechanical watch, of course).

If I had to have a complaint about the Rolex Submariner 114060, it would be about the coating over the sapphire crystal. Rolex puts anti-reflective (AR) coating on the bottom of the crystal only, and not the top. That means that there is glare; but not too much since it is flat crystal. I like the idea of having so much AR coating on a sapphire crystal that it looks invisible and that you can stick your finger right onto the dial. I am not sure why Rolex does not use AR coating on the top of the crystal, but I am sure they have a good reason. I have have two hypothesized reasons why they don't. First is because AR coating can wear off and Rolex doesn't like for their watches to have areas that are too susceptible to wear. Second is because glare causes things to shine a bit and I think Rolex likes the idea that their watches might attract a bit of onlooker attention because the crystal catches light.

People who read aBlogtoWatch a lot know that I've claimed to not like Rolex when I first started out liking watches. It wasn't that I didn't like Rolex, but rather that I simply wasn't interested. The designs bored me, and I can totally understand how that might be the fact with novice watch lovers. Over the years I've increasingly become appreciative of simplicity and absolute functionality in many of my watches. No Rolex is an "exciting or trendy" watch, but rather they are mature and sophisticated, and often timeless. That is part of the core appeal aside from the power of the Rolex name.

I'll admit that the Rolex name does carry some cache with me, but mostly because after all is said and done, the company is remarkably consistent and stable. For that reason, people consider Rolex watches to be like currency, and that is a  big part of why Rolex watches hold their value so well. The Rolex Submariner isn't just a timepiece, but an institution. It is like being part of a club which many people should be involved with for at least a moment in their lives. A watch like this is a testament to a set of design and manufacturing principles that is so utterly non-controversial you can't help but stand behind it. Many people are happy with owning something like a Rolex Submariner as their daily watch, and there is nothing wrong with that.

Personally, I don't think I could be "wed" to a single timepiece, but I do think that even if you wish to maintain a small watch collection something in the Rolex Oyster Professional collection should be in there, and the Rolex Submariner 114060 is a very appealing choice. Retail price is $7,500, and given the competition today, you actually do get a lot for your money. rolex.com

Necessary Data
>Brand: Rolex
>Model: Submariner 114060
>Price: $7,500 USD
>Size: 40mm
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we’d recommend it to first:  Anyone with the budget looking for an utterly evergreen watch to add to their collection or be their collection.
>Best characteristic of watch:  The gold standard steel sports watch with everything you need and nothing you don't. In many ways, a masterpiece of modern design and engineering.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Might benefit from AR coating on front as well rear of the sapphire crystal. Crown might be a bit stiff for some when all the way screwed down.

Source: A Blog to Watch (September 29, 2014)

A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Datejust

Ask any watch guy about Rolex, and chances are you'll get regaled with stories about rare vintage Daytonas or the high-tech, bi-color Cerachrome bezels on the new GMT. Few collectors and enthusiasts will immediately jump to talking about the Datejust – and that might be a mistake. One of the more understated members of the Rolex family, the Datejust has an amazing combination of real history, versatile style, and quality watchmaking that should get everyone from the casual watch wearer to the die-hard enthusiast excited. Here we take the modern 36mm Datejust for a spin while also giving you an in-depth look at where this watch comes from and why it's one of the greatest watches of all time.

ROLEX & THE DATEJUST

Original Rolex Manufacture - © Rolex 

There is no question that Rolex is the best known watch manufacture on the planet, not to mention one of the best-known brands in general, world-wide. It would be easy to assume that this is the result of extravagant marketing budgets and other less-tangible qualities – and these things surely play a part – but to dismiss the history of the company and its products would be to do the story a great disservice. The Datejust is one of the earliest models that survives today and provides a perfect lens through which to examine why Rolex is, well, Rolex.

Hans Wilsdorf – © Rolex

Rolex was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, though it was originally located in the United Kingdom and called Wilsdorf & Davis. The name would transition to Rolex SA in 1920 when Wilsdorf relocated to Switzerland where his suppliers were located, giving us the company we have today. There are little insights from the very early days that give us a lot of insight into how Rolex has become what it is, such as Wilsdorf's insistence that his brand's name be easy to pronounce in any language and that it remain short and easy to place elegantly on the dial of his watches. These are little decisions that have had huge ramifications down the line.

The First Datejust – © Rolex

Now to the Datejust itself. The very first Datejust was released in 1945 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Rolex corporation. It was unveiled at a jubilee celebration (hence the name of the new bracelet that accompanied the watch from day-one) held at the Hotel des Bergues in Geneva by Wilsdorf himself (now the Four Seasons and the site of such legendary Christie's sales as Rolex Daytona: Lesson One). It was the very first automatic wristwatch with an automatically changing date window. This is a feature that anyone with a watch takes completely for granted today, but in the 40s it was game-changing.

The First Oyster Watch, 1926 – © Rolex

The Datejust of course was housed in an Oyster case, another great Rolex innovation. In 1926, the Oyster case became the very first waterproof wristwatch case to be produced serially and it was also the first fully-integrated waterproof case overall. Previously, any waterproof cases were tedious affairs that involved an outer case being snapped over the main case. 

We also had the Perpetual rotor that would automatically wind the movement, one of the few innovations not achieved first by Rolex. Harwood beat them to market by 3 years, offering up the first automatic movements in 1928. The Datejust also had the new bracelet mentioned before, the Jubilee bracelet. Originally, Jubilee was considered for the name of the watch itself, but it ended up just on the fine-linked bracelet that we still have today. 

A Later Datejust Ref. 4467 © John Goldberger

The first Datejust was the reference 4467 and it was only available in yellow gold with the corresponding yellow gold Jubilee bracelet. It has an open creamy white dial with applied gold batons to mark the hours and a "roulette" date window that showed even days in red and odd days in black. There was no cyclops magnifier in the crystal at this time – that would be another Rolex first, introduced on the Datejust in 1955. You'll notice that the name Datejust doesn't actually appear on the dial anywhere; instead we have a "Rolex / Oyster Perpetual" signature at 12 o'clock and the "Chronometre" indication at 6 o'clock. The bezel was lightly fluted, a feature that became more emphasized in the 1960s.

Datejust Ref. 5031 – © John Goldberger

Over the following years, countless variations of the Datejust emerged. There were two-tone steel and pink gold varations, entirely steel models, and watches featuring everything from stone dials to diamond bezels. The name Datejust began to appear sporadically on the ref. 5030 and 5031 but wouldn't become a permanent fixture until the later 6074 and 6075. To detail every variation of the Datejust might be an impossible task, though there are some very serious collectors who pursue it as far as they can, nonetheless.

Datejust II – © Rolex

Today there is the 16200 family of Datejusts, the 36mm decedents of the original, unchanged in many ways, which is the what we'll be looking at in-depth here. But it's worth noting that in 2009 Rolex also introduced the Datejust II in an updated 41mm size. It still has the same styling and the variety of dials and details – everything from gold to diamonds to arabic numerals – but in a size that appeals to those who think a 36mm watch is too small. Luckily Rolex added this to the line-up, allowing the classic to live on alongside the Datejust II.

A FEW IMPORTANT DATEJUSTS

While we certainly can't even show you a significant portion of the Datejust's extensive history here, we can show you a few examples of exemplary Datejusts that demonstrate just how important this watch is to the history of the watch industry and the watch's place in popular culture.

While the Day-Date gets a lot of the attention when it comes to famous wearers (with its bracelet even being named "The President"), more than a few luminaries wore Datejusts. Just last week we showed you US President Dwight D. Eisenhower's personal Datejust, which is coming up for sale in September 2014. He wore the solid gold ref. 6305 on the cover of Life magazine, giving it a solid place in pop-culture watch history. You can learn more about this Datejust here.

One of the archetypal Datejust references is the 6305 from the mid-1950s. When it comes to vintage DJs, this is one that even the most serious Daytona collectors will go crazy for. They were solid steel with one of the earliest examples of the fluted bezel that resembles the bezel we have today, and they came with either creamy white or almost greyish black dials, the latter being much more desirable and collectable. Both had a honeycomb texture, making them even more elegant. You can see more shots of this stunning black-dial 6305 from Watches In Rome here.

While in some ways not strictly a Rolex watch, this modified Datejusts is truly interesting. Sure, it might look like a run-of-the-mill ref. 16220 Datejust from the late 1980s or early 90s, but it in fact houses a movement modified with a co-axial escapement by none other than George Daniels himself. Before he sold the technology to Omega, Daniels modified a number of existing watches with his invention and shopped the idea around. This is almost certainly one of a kind. We told you the full, if slightly murky story of this watch, here. 

Ok, this one might not be historically significant outside collector circles, but it's indisputably awesome. This ref. 6604 dates to 1957 and is solid platinum with an original woven platinum bracelet. That alone would get us excited, but then add the black honeycomb dial with gilt printing and in-tact lume plots and our hearts start racing. It's unclear as to how many watches like this were made, but we'd be shocked if it was more than a handful or two. This example is also from Watches In Rome and you can see more photos here. 

THE 36MM OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST

Rolex Datejust 36mm ref. 116200

This brings us to the standard 36mm Datejust of today, the ref. 116200 (116234 in this configuration). This is the modern descendent of the classic DJs of the 1950s, like the 6305 referenced above. There are literally dozens of possible combinations of metals, bracelets, dials, etc., possible today, but we chose to go with a watch that we think best combines the classic, historical traits with a few modern updates that make for easier wear.

First off, the Datejust we have here is the classic 36mm size, not the 41mm Datejust II. While some think 36mm is too small, we certainly do not and believe this watch offers the benefits of a smaller, more vintage-looking size with all the up-sides of modern technology. Next, we chose the stainless steel case. Rolex uses 904L steel, which is a low-carbon alloy that is more resistant to corrosion and damage. But this comes at a cost; 904L is much harder to machine and in the early 2000s Rolex had to invest in new infrastructure to allow them to work with the alloy. We think it's paid off many times over.

Rolex Oyster Bracelet

The Jubilee bracelet is of course the most classic option with a Datejust, but we opted for the Oyster bracelet instead. Sure, the Jubilee was introduced on the DJ, but today it feels a bit dressier and is much shinier, making it a little less suited to every day wear. The Oyster bracelet gives the watch a sporty edge that allows it to work in almost any setting. We balanced this out by opting for the traditional fluted white gold bezel instead of the more sober and modern flat bezel.

Champagne Dial With Luminous Hands And Batons

Finally there are the dial options. Again, trying to capture the spirit of the classic Datejusts, we chose the sunburst champagne color with simple stick markers and hands. The hour markers are luminous, as are the hands, and the subtle texture on the dial is nearly identical to the sunburst found on 1960s Datejusts. There is a cyclops crystal, magnifying the date at 3 o'clock, something you'll find on all modern Datejusts across the two ranges.

Caliber 3135 – © Rolex

This watch definitely inherits a lot from its ancestors, but, as with any Rolex, it's built to extremely high contemporary standards. Inside is the caliber 3135 movement, which has been at the core of Rolex's arsenal since 1988. It's a COSC-certified chronometer automatic movement with about 50 hours of power reserve and 31 jewels. The balance contains a proprietary Parachrom hairspring that is more resistant to shocks and is amagnetic – that it is manufactured entirely in-house makes it all the more impressive. The caliber is nicely, if not ornately finished, and it's as robust and functional a movement as you'll find anywhere. Sure, it's just over 25 years old, but it's still a calibre to be reckoned with when it comes to doing its job and doing it well. It should be noted that at the the 2014 BaselWorld, Rolex quietly introduced its first caliber with a silicon balance spring – they're calling it Syloxi – though it's only found in a 34mm ladies Pearlmaster. There is no word when or if other models such as the Datejust will receive this update.

"Rolex" On The Bezel Flange

If you look closely, you'll notice all the little details that set a modern Rolex apart from nearly any other watch in the marketplace. Looking at the bottom of the crystal and around the inside bezel flange you'll see Rolex trademarks, making it a little easier to spots fakes. Also, everything on the dial, from the luminous markers to the coronet at 12 o'clock is applied by hand, something many people wrongly assume Rolex does by machine. All in all, creating this relatively simple dial takes over 60 individual operations. 

Under the cyclops, the date is bright and extremely easy to read. Datejust is certainly a fitting name here. 

Twinlock Crown

The Oyster case is resistant to 100m (330ft) and features the patented Twinlock screw-down crown. It's easy to screw and unscrew, but when it's locked down you really get a sense of security.

Closed Oysterclasp

Open Oysterclasp

Rolex bracelets are known for being some of the best out there (some say THE best) and it's easy to see why. The links are heavy and sturdy – nothing like the thin-but-charming folded links you'll find on vintage Rolexes – and the clasp is an incredible piece of engineering. The Oysterclasp uses a small lever to open and close, making it almost impossible for the bracelet to pop open accidentally. There is also a micro-adjustment mechanism, letting you fine-tune the fit.

From top to bottom, this is an impressive watch on paper and in the metal. But what's it like on the wrist?

ON THE WRIST

Datejust 36mm On The Wrist

When I first picked up this Datejust and had the Rolex watchmaker size it to my wrist, I wasn't exactly sure what to think. I'd worn vintage Datejusts before and even some vintage Day-Dates, and a vintage GMT Master is one of my favorite watches, but I'd never really spent any time with a modern Rolex. At least not in a serious or thoughtful way, and I was a little skeptical going into this test.

I'll avoid burying the lede here and tell you I was extremely impressed. The Datejust, though it bears the same 36mm designation as its 1960s predecessors, is a very different watch. The shoulders of the case are much broader and the case itself is thicker, giving the watch a less delicate and buttoned-up feel. On the wrist it's solid and lets you know it's there. While I wouldn't describe it as heavy, I would say "substantial" does a pretty good job summing up the experience, especially with the Oyster bracelet.

The dial is about as legible as it gets, in both light and dark conditions. The sunburst patterns adds just enough texture to the dial that you want to keep looking at it, without being loud or flashy. The printing is all inky and legible and the applied markers and coronet are cleanly fixed to the dial with a level of precision that explains why many wrongly think this must be handled by machines. The proportions of the hands, markers, and dial are all delicately balanced, with each element fitting perfectly with the rest. It's really a case study in simple design.

My biggest complaint is one that most vintage enthusiasts can sympathize with: the polished links on the bracelet. While older Oyster bracelets were brushed all over – a fitting finish for a tool watch bracelet – the modern Oysters have highly polished center links with brushed links on either size. These center links reflect a lot of light and collect dirt and scratches like its going out of style. Sure, the 904L steel is as resistant to this as you're going to find, but it's just the nature of polished surfaces to show dirt and marks. 

I really enjoyed my time with the 36mm Datejust and giving it back to Rolex was tough. As you might expect, I have multiple watches and enjoy rotating them for different conditions and occasions. For others in the same situation, the Datejust could easily find a spot in your collection, getting a lot of wear on those days where you need to transition between casual and dressier occasions. It was easy to wear in meetings during the day and to a bar with friends in the evening. No need to swap.

But where the Datejust really shines if for people who wear the same watch every day. Let's admit it, not everyone can or wants to amass a collection of different watches for different situations. For those people, the Datejust is an incredible choice. It's solidly built, will (quite literally) outlast you, can be worn in any situation, and be relied upon to work under any conditions. The Datejust is a watch you can be proud to wear any where, any time. It doesn't get much better than that for an every-day watch. There's a reason why the two-tone Datejust is Rolex's best seller.

As we have it configured here, the Datejust 36mm is priced at $7,850, meaning that while it's not exactly a budget buy, it still comes in significantly under the all-important $10,000 mark. With a polished steel bezel instead of the fluted white gold bezel, the 36mm Datejust starts at $6,600. Two-tone versions start just over the $10,00 mark while solid gold versions can exceed $30,000. There are definitely reliable time and date watches out there for less, but you are still getting a lot for your money here. But, as always, if you think this watch is for you, there are still some other options to consider, so let's take a look at what else might fit the bill.

COMPETITION

As you might expect, the biggest comparison we need to make here is between this Datejust and its vintage predecessors. It would be a mistake to think that the two watches are interchangeable, though they do share a lot of traits. If you're looking for an all-purpose watch that can take anything you can throw at it, I would shy away from the more delicate vintage Datejusts, but if you want a dressier watch that captures that mid-century vibe, the vintage DJ will serve you well. Price is a big factor here too – a standard 1960s or 1970s Datejust will set you back about $2,000 to $4,000 depending on condition, bracelet, dial color, etc. More desirable models and rare versions from the 1950s can fetch upwards of $20,000, with some even breaking the $50,000 mark, but we can set those aside for now.

Staying in the family, there is the new Tudor Style. It comes in 4 sizes (28mm, 34mm, 38mm, and 41mm) in a variety of dial colors, with all steel or two-tone construction, and on either a bracelet or a strap. The best analog here would be the stainless steel Style on a matching bracelet in the 38mm size. You still have an incredibly robust case, though in a slightly more modern style than the Datejust's, and inside is an ETA 2892 movement, a solid workhorse. At $2,300 in this configuration, the price is only about 1/3 that of the Datejust, making this a really appealing alternative if you're willing to make some compromises. 

Omega is another usual suspect worth looking to for an all-purpose watch that packs a lot of punch. The best comparison is the Seamaster Aqua Terra 150 M Master Co-Axial. The looks are a little sportier than those of the Datejust, especially with the broad-arrow hand and textured black dial, but the 38.5mm size is still restrained by today's standards and the bracelet a three-link with polished center links. Powering the Aqua Terra is caliber 8500, a truly technology-packed movement. It's anti-magnetic (indicated by the "Master" designation), has a co-axial escapement, is chronometer certified, has a 60-hour power reserve, and can even be seen through a transparent caseback.

At $6,000, the Aqua Terra is nearly $2,000 less expensive than the Rolex we have here, but only $600 less than the 36mm steel DJ without the white gold bezel, which makes this a more serious comparison than it might be otherwise.

Is the 36mm Datejust the least expensive time and date watch out there? No. Is it even the least expensive time and date watch with a solidly built steel case, a sturdy bracelet to match, a technologically advanced movement inside, and a beautiful, classic dial? No, it's not that either. But it is a Rolex Datejust. You're buying into the history and the future of one of the most iconic watches of all time, and there is something to be said for that. If you really want the Datejust, there is probably no other watch that will tick all the boxes for you.

CONCLUSIONS

As a vintage Rolex lover, I was a little skeptical when I started this review. Modern Rolex and vintage Rolex are typically two very separate worlds with little overlap, but the 36mm Datejust is an amazing watch that nicely bridges the gap between the two, carrying over many of the things we love about vintage Rolex while offering the niceties of a modern Rolex at the same time. It's a watch that recalls the watches of the mid-20th century without being a tribute or a throwback.

On the wrist, there is no doubt that the 36mm Datejust is a solid machine that will serve you well forever. It's solid, well constructed, and has a number of little details that make you smile as you notice them. If you have a number of watches, it has enough interesting about it that you'll still be captivated, while if you're a one-watch person, you'd be hard pressed to find a better daily-wearer.

The modern Datejust, while not the most popular Rolex amongst watch enthusiasts, is a restrained and straightforward reminder of why Rolex wears the crown.

For more on the Rolex Datejust 36mm, visit Rolex online.

Source: Hodinkee (June 26, 2014)